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It's Not Really MAY Already.....Is It??
After buying a rebuild kit for both distributors Ray found that both rebuild kits came with this bushing - but the one distributor never had it installed. The prop nut has to tighten up at the same time that the two 1/2 pin holes that are machined into it align with any of the 3 sets of 1/2 pin holes in the prop shaft. As the prop nut threads onto the prop shaft, the nut tightens the prop flange against a shoulder that is machined onto the prop shaft. It slips onto the matching o. d. spline on the prop shaft in the center (prop shaft has the center hole to allow prop governor oil to the prop hub). Helping A Buddy Rebuild a CNC Mill - I also have another friend that is in the ammunition reloading business. The sound changes are from Ray feathering the prop and changing speeds with the prop feathered and un-feathered: Squawks & Fixes - Ray discovered a few gripes during the run ups. What was causing the retainer to push forward was the rush of oil from the prop governor to the prop hub (since the hole in the retainer was much smaller and causing a restriction). Once that happens, the prop nut retainer can be installed into the pin holes and prevent the prop nut from turning loose. What you see in the next pic is the prop flange, prop nut, and retainer that holds the prop hub to the PSRU (gearbox). Here are a few pix from one morning: Well, the engine on that genset was 50+ years old and not in running condition (only 610 hours on the engine, but the injector pump was bad with no repair parts available anywhere). The outer 6 are for bolting the adapter plate to the engine flywheel, the middle pattern of 3 is for the counter-sunk bolts that will hold the plate to the rotary table during the follow-on machining processes, and the inner 6 bolt pattern is... Well, having some background in working on these machines, I figured maybe I could help him get it running and then help him program it. After a few days in Feb working on the machine and trying to figure out (and straighten out) the wiring, I... It is threaded on the i. d. and smooth on the o. d. On the far side of the prop nut (opposite the end with all the small holes), it is flat and pushes against a shoulder that is machined into prop hub. Here's a video of the engine near idle after the fuel control was tweaked and re-installed: The engine is now much more controllable at idle. 1) Engine Runs: I put a couple of initial engine run videos in the previous blog update. I did a bunch of research on finding a good diesel engine to replace the "boat anchor" engine on the genset. So, first I had to find a plate and drill the hole pattern into it with the Bridgeport Mill: If you look closely there are 3 concentric bolt hole patterns drilled into the plate. During that set of engine runs Ray was experiencing low idle control issues with the engine. The main burner jets are brass and thread directly into sockets that are welded to the main steel line that you see behind these burner assemblies: Now, it turns out that on 90% of the furnace burners out there in the world that produce 25,000... Here's a quick video of the genset running: The next push on this project will be to get all of the wiring completed to the engine gauges, and the engine shutdown protection systems (overheat or low oil pressure). With the engine control much improved, the goal was to run the engine a little more aggressively to get it to heat up and check all the oil, water, fuel and electrical parameters. There was a 6 bolt hole pattern that I could use to bolt a plate directly to the flywheel and then to that same plate I could bolt 1/2 of the Lovejoy coupling already installed on the generator. Here is the Kubota V2203 engine that I ended up buying from him: In order to adapt this engine to connect to the generator I was going to have to make a plate to bolt to the flywheel you see in the pic above. First, we drilled the hole in the center of the retainer out to the same size as the hole in the prop shaft. Retaining Wall - Since buying an RV to take the family trip last summer, I've been wanting to extend my big retaining wall in front of the shop (affectionately known by now as the "Great Wall of Prowler"). Pat wanted to just replace the (admittedly old and dated) control with a new control that was specifically designed by Fagor to replace the old 8025 controls. Then, as an added measure of protection, Ray had the inside edge of the prop hub machined with a narrow slot to allow for using a inside snap ring to also prevent the retainer from being pushed out of the pin holes. When Bryan emailed me that this had happened, I first thought that he was joking - but, no. I can only imagine how heartbreaking a set-back like that must be. Not to be deterred, Bryan has located a new, local vendor that can duplicate the... The hole in the retainer is much smaller than the hole in the prop shaft. After some research and messing around it turned out that the ignition timing problems were being caused by a couple things going on. First, was the timing advance and retard system. Ray now has it set up for 5 degrees of retard for engine start, then as the rpm climbs the timing advances to 27-28 degrees advance at around 1500 rpm. George designed this with six 1/2 circular pin holes to accept the pins you see in the retainer piece. Well, he found one in pretty good condition that was not quite operational: It happens to have the same Fagor 8025 controller that my Motionmaster router has and Pat was looking for someone that could help him program the machine to make his parts. Then, when that is complete I will begin building a 10' x 12' building near my service pole to install the genset in. Then I will wire it into the electric service on my property so that I can run it to power the entire property (house, shop,... One was the Isuzu C201 engine used in ThermoKing refrigeration tractor trailers and the other was the Kubota V2203 also used in Carrier Transicold refrigeration tractor trailers. For some reason, at this angle and with the sun light directly behind the camera, the camera strobes the prop at a different frequency than the later videos (from a different angle). I also want to set the system up so that I can use this genset to run just my shop and leave the rest of the property running on PG&E. On the inner surface of the prop hub you can see two 1/2 pin hole circular cuts. Cleaning Out Chuck's Hangar - I don't have any pictures, unfortunately, from the trip to help Nancy clean out Chuck's hangar (so that she could turn it back over to the city). I'm not exactly sure what "magic" was performed on the fuel control (new sized jets, different springs, and different diaphragms were a few of the things I heard mentioned) - but the net affect was a dramatic improvement in engine smoothness and... While it is not an absolute requirement, studies and various data have show that aluminum parts that have a chromate conversion process done to them before painting have an increases the life span of the parts by about 1/3 (before inevitable and... Turns out, it was a pretty good fit: Right up until he pushed a little too much, in just the right (or wrong) place at just the right (or wrong) time - then suddenly. Once Ray got the plane running well and most of the issues corrected, it was time to start prepping the airplane for paint. The prop nut is the circular part with all of the small holes in the edge facing the camera. All of the burner jets and the pilot light jet have much larger orifices when set up for natural gas (it is delivered at a much lower pressure so requires a larger orifice opening). The last main squawk was that Ray noticed that the prop tips were not tracking correctly (in the same plane) all the time. The prop nut retainer is the piece in Ray's hand. I just have to find 2 more 3foot straight sections of B-vent pipe and the time to tackle putting in a roof jack for the vent pipe. Francis' & Robert's Prowler Progress - Since my last blog update, Francis and Robert have begun the process of de-riveting their spar so that they can do the chromate conversion process (Alodining) to all of the spar pieces. It was working its way forward and the pins were coming out of the aligned pin holes. Bryan's Prowler Progress - One of the items that I brought back on the trip to help clean out Chuck's hangar (discussed below) was a spare canopy that Chuck had acquired. The prop flange has the outer hole pattern in it and it is splined on the inside diameter. Turns out that one of the distributors was missing a bushing that no one knew about. Also, there is a conversion that must be done to the gas control valve (you can see it piped to the furnace in the lower left of the above picture). The second issue was that one distributor was not holding it's timing setting very well. The splines cannot be seen in the first picture because they are hidden behind the round prop nut. Here's what they look like (it's a big pic but they are really less than 1/2" across the threads): So, now I have the furnace converted for LP gas. Anyway, all was going well until we suddenly, accidentally shorted one side of 120Vac to the frame of the machine and killed the controller. Those torpedo heaters are loud and on one day after listening to it long enough I decided that I wanted to get the shop heater working. So, while getting these items rounded up, and in the midst of working the day job, and while tackling other pop up projects, it turned warm again and now I don't need the heat. I will get a cert engine and prop combo. This restriction was enough to cause a pressure to develop on the "edge" that was sticking out into the oil flow and blowing the retainer out of the pin holes. Once we figured out what had happened, we began to make plans for how to fix the machine with a new controller. Here's a couple of pix of the wall building progress: There is still a ways to go, but this wall is getting within about 35 feet of the end (where it will meet up with the yard on the east side of the house). The next day, we got an early start and finished cleaning almost everything out of the hangar - with the help of many folks with nearby hangars. It was a whirl-wind trip, but between Ray, his wife Isabel, Nancy and I we got a large trailer load delivered to her home garage by 1100pm on that first day. I still have not found a decent alternator set-up for the engine and the alternator mounting is what also tightens the v-belt that drives the water pump off of the crank pulley. antennas, prop and like things on the fuselage 2. Then there is the gas plumbing and hat gas venting to install. Adding just a small amount of throttle results in a linear and small increase in engine speed. For one set of these parts he needs to have a 3 axis CNC mill. So, I can only run it for short periods so that I don't overheat the engine block around the cylinders. By 6pm on the second day Ray and I had loaded up all of the things that we were buying from Nancy and on our way out of town. Once the gas is plumbed to the furnace I will have to do some test burns to set the air shutters on all of the burner assemblies. " It took the better part of the whole month of Feb (on my days off) to sort thru all the boxes and boxes of stuff from Chuck's hangar. The prop shaft is threaded on the o. d. near the end. Last winter was a little colder than normal and I was using a torpedo type heater to warm up the shop on the days that I was out there working. newsletter and this week they (DeltaHawk) had an in flight comparison - the SR 22 with a. DeltaHawk installed engine instead of the 200 hp Lycoming. Also, notice the camera strobing the prop from this angle. George contacted me a couple of times this spring to help him get some film of his airplane in a high speed taxi. There's still a lot or work left in just picking up all of the left-over pieces of concrete below the wall. Second, I got access to A LOT of broken concrete pieces (10 trailer loads full) about the same time....
What oil pump should i buy?
I have a 1997 f250 7.3 diesel and I would like to buy a high performance high pressure oil pump for it but don't know what to get. When I look online they never say exactly if they never provide specs or statistics as to if they are better than OEM replacement. I want one that can handle a chip, and stage 1 injectors just fine. I don't have the injectors yet but i plan on getting them soon. Thanks!
Well a 97 7.3 I would imagine it has some mileage on it, so unless you want to smoke that motor, your gonna have to rebuild or it wont last very long. Even a idle is gonna murder your motor. 7.3 are GREAT ford/international motors but when you start juicing a old motor it just goes to the dump. Go to your International dealer in town or one close by and ask what they have. 7.3 L went into many different vehicles. Large dump truck would of had a factory built HPOP that produce great pressures for what your looking for. You will also have to change out your Regulator (IPR)also or having a High performance HPOP wont do you no good and your ICP as well. Its not just about slapping parts on There is more to it Not being rude just trying to save you from a disappointment and money wasted.
I have been having a major loss of power!?
I have a 2001 dodge ram 5.9 4x4 off road edition. The truck has 235,000 miles plus on it and i have noticed that it is much slower then all the other dodge rams from the era, It has 4,10 gears a rebuilt trans low mile transfer case and new rear end, i dont understand what could be causing such a loss of power, i mean i have to floor it to get it up to highway speeds and it is just so sluggish, I cant even do a burnout with it and the 4.10 gears should do it easy! I have replaced the tps sensor, map sensor, and i have done all the normal dodge maintenance as far front end repair. The fuel pump is original and i have tried the sea foam treatment, the trucks seams to have good vacuum, it does idle rough. The exhaust is just a pipe from the cat back and i checked the cat already its still good. I Did wires spark plugs cap and rotor already so idk what the problem could be please somebody who has more knowledge then I help??????????????????? its a 5.9 gas motor to clarify and it has a rebuilt auto transmission
If it's a 5.9 Diesel engine, maybe the injectors need to be looked at. If you have an automatic transmission, it may be slipping when under lots of power.
Diesel Injector Rebuild - Bookshelf
How to Restore Classic Farm Tractors, The Ultimate Do-It-Yourself Guide to Rebuilding and Restoring Tractors
The Ultimate Do-It-Yourself Guide to Rebuilding and Restoring Tractors Tharran E. Gaines. Having been ... In fact, some of today's diesel engines utilize pumps producing up to 5,000 psi pressure at the injector. It is this high injection pressure , ...
About this book
Finally! A restoration guide with the kind of detail needed for a first class job. How to Restore Classic Farm Tractors is packed with hundreds of helpful full-color photographs, proven tips and techniques, and money-saving advice from restorers who know what works . . . and what doesn't. This guide will walk you step-by-step through the complete restoration of your tractor from disassembly to engine rebuild, from electrics to painting and final detailing. There's even a handy section on parts sources. So, no matter if you favor John Deeres, Fords, Farmalls, A-Cs, or Minnie-Mos, with Gaine's guidance you're well on your way to showing off your shiny "new" classic tractor! Tharran Gaines has specialized in agricultural writing for the past 25 years. He has written owners' manuals, repair guides, and sales brochures for most of the major tractor companies, such as ACGO's Allis-Chalmers, White, and Hesston lines.
How to Restore Classic John Deere Tractors, The Ultimate Do-It-Yourself Guide to Rebuilding and Restoring Deere Two-Cylinder Tractors
The Ultimate Do-It-Yourself Guide to Rebuilding and Restoring Deere Two- Cylinder Tractors Tharran E. Gaines ... In fact, some of today's diesel engines utilize pumps producing up to 5,000 psi pressure at the injector. It is this high ...
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Finally! A restoration guide with the kind of detail needed for a first-class job. "How To Restore Classic John Deere Tractors" is packed with hundreds of helpful full-color photographs, proven tips and techniques, and money-saving advice from restorers who know what works . . . and what doesn’t. This guide will walk you step-by-step through the complete restoration of your tractor from disassembly to engine rebuild, from electrical repairs to painting and final detailing. There’s even a handy section on parts sources. With Gaines’s guidance you’re well on your way to showing off your shiny "new" classic tractor! Say, you wouldn’t mind giving me a hand with this starter, would ya?
Diesel injector pumps often develop 30,000 psi, and the tubing between the injector pump and the injector has to be robust to handle such ... Most repairs or rebuilding of diesel fuel system components require specialized equipment.
About this book
The popular how-to series with full color photography, fresh designs, step-by-step instructions, more practical and easy-to-use content, and written by the top experts in the industry. For fun, practicality or profit, farm tractor restoration has become extremely popular. Follow two tractors through professional restorations and examine carbs, diesel systems, hydraulics, engines and drives, electrical, PTOs, and more. From buying a tractor to final paint and decals, this book helps you do it right so your classic will last for generations to come. Originally published in 1992, this updated edition reflects changes in the hobby. Features include a new introduction, an updated suppliers list, and select color photography, all wrapped into a new page design.
Diesel Fuel Injectors Directory
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APDTY 112530 Fuel Injector O-Ring Repair/Rebuild Kit For Ford Power Stroke 6.0L Diesel Engine/ Navistar 6.0L Diesel Engine (Re-Seals All 8 Injectors) (Replaces 3C3Z 9229-AA)
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OEM Ford 6.0 Powerstroke 03 Head Gasket Kit 18mm Cooler (California Safe!) - Upgraded EGR Cooler, FORD OEM 18mm Head Gaskets, ARP Stud Kit, OEM HPOP Kit, OEM Oil Cooler Kit, OEM Injector Seal Kit, OEM Dummy Plugs
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GB Remanufacturing 712-502 Fuel Injector
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You Save: $361.60 (56%)All injectors are exact OEM replacement injectors, not similar or aftermarket substitutes. This guarantees form, fit and function.Remanufacture Diesel Injector12 month/15,000 mile warranty.Rapid rebuild and return for unique and hard to find applications.All injectors are 100% tested to meet or exceed OEM specifications.
GB Remanufacturing 722-506 Fuel Injector
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GB Remanufactured 722-506 Diesel Injector0 5/5 StubbornMike - See all my reviews Verified Purchase(What's this?) This review is from: GB Remanufacturing 722-506 Fuel Injector (Automotive) I purchased this injector as of-coarse I had a bad one, I was unsure of what brand to purchase as you hear all these manufactures reuse alot of the internal components. I mainly purchased it based on its cheap price with no CORE charge, The injector as of today has no issue, my truck runs great! Has about 1000 miles on it, in the future I will consider GB injectors again as replacement parts 0 Help other customers find the most helpful reviews Was this review helpful to you? , May 1, 2014
You Save: $116.40 (25%)All injectors are exact OEM replacement injectors, not similar or aftermarket substitutes. This guarantees form, fit and function.All injectors are 100% tested to meet or exceed OEM specifications.Remanufacture Diesel InjectorRapid rebuild and return for unique and hard to find applications.12 month/15,000 mile warranty.
GB Remanufacturing 712-501 Fuel Injector
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Dorman Help! 85850 Bosch Fuel Injector Repair Kit
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GB Remanufacturing 722-507 Fuel Injector
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Four Stars0 4/5 Jennifer Y. - See all my reviews Verified Purchase(What's this?) This review is from: GB Remanufacturing 722-504 Fuel Injector (Automotive) WORKS JUST AS I WANTED IT TO. 0 Help other customers find the most helpful reviews Was this review helpful to you? , September 30, 2014
You Save: $198.23 (50%)12 month/15,000 mile warranty.All injectors are 100% tested to meet or exceed OEM specifications.Remanufacture Diesel InjectorRapid rebuild and return for unique and hard to find applications.
Diesel Fuel Injector 3380027900 for SantaFe Tucson Trajet XG Bosch [3380027900R]
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